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Tortilla Republic's Nuevo Mexican Picks

4/18/2012

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With stylized plating and impressive decor, Tortilla Republic is exactly the kind of "Mod Mexican" restaurant most would hope to find in Beverly Hills. The food can be "hit or miss" for now, as the kitchen gets a better grasp of what works and what doesn't, but it's hard to hate when the menu is this inventive and fun. Duck confit tacos, and hibiscus flower or lobster truffle enchiladas? BH sure is fancy.

WIth an outdoor patio and a trendy, nautical-inspired chandelier room in the back, this 125-seat spot works for large dinner parties or intimate dates. Interior designer Kirk Pereira really personalized the space using woven chairs and hand-blown glassware similar to those the owners have seen on their travels. And Pereira kept it sexy with a white onyx bar (boasting LA-based contemporary artist Paul Robinson's designs) and a glass tequila wall that emanates light.
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After a solid 5 minutes ogling the drink menu and fawning over the cucumber lavender tequila with house made lavender syrup, we browsed the options that consulting chef Cathy Shyne had developed and applauded the use of farmer's market ingredients and organic fare. Here are some of the dishes we tried.
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The chilled ceviche [$13] was fresh and definitely on the sweet side. It had the fish of the day (which was swordfish) and shrimp with fresh lime juice, cilantro, mango salsa and avocado. The tortilla chips were crisp and added a welcome bite of salt to the sweet ceviche. I enjoyed the versatility of flavors and the freshness made this a great way to wet the appetite. 
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The Tuna Crudo [$13.25] with ahi tuna, avocado, mango, jicama, and blood orange citronette had a modern presentation that you might not expect from a Mexican restaurant but would otherwise be pretty standard. The colors were vibrant and the ahi was poised over a pool of hibiscus which gave it a fragrant fruitiness of sorts. A very nice dish although I preferred the ceviche. 
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Tacos de Jicama [$12] are an extremely exciting proposition to anyone avoiding carbs, since the "tortillas" are actually thin slices of jicama. I tried jicama tacos like these on a recent trip to Guadalajara, Mexico and loved the idea, so I was beyond thrilled to see them reappear on an LA menu. It took only a few bites to discover their blandness though, even with the likes of shrimp, chipotle mayo, cilantro, red onion and avocado in the mix. But for a simple and light snack, tacos de  jicama are a genius addition to the menu and one that some of us will be careful not to overlook. Maybe a side of hot sauce or salsa would do the trick. 
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Duck Confit Tacos [$12] with sour cherry salsita, shaved radish and cilantro crema. Heart be still.

Extremely high expectations joined the party at the mere sight of these colorful and juicy looking tacos. Alas, these were a disappointment. 

The duck confit was way too sugary and the sweetness completely masked the other flavors. Who really wants to bite into a dessert taco as an appetizer? Our waitress told us that we were not the first to mention the sugary overload and she hinted that perhaps a few of the dishes were still being revised. Truth is that the restaurant is still very new and just needs a few tweaks in the right places to blossom. 
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The Carnitas [$20] with crispy pork, caramelized orange, pickled jalapeños, and tomatillo fresco was marinated in orange juice and coca cola. There was a distinct orange fragrance from the orange zest which definitely lingered so make sure that you are a fan of zest before you order!
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Lobster enchiladas [$26] with truffled tomatillo seafood bisque, shaved black truffle and manchego and jack cheeses was soft and delicate with a tangy, lightly spicy sauce to bring in that Latin flare. This was by far my favorite dish and one I would recommend. I know it's pricey but what else can you expect when you order lobster and truffles? Other than pure joy, that is.
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The 8 oz. Prime Flatiron Steak [$26] with chimichurri sauce, onion rings and grilled asparagus came on a bed of jalapeño roasted garlic potato puree. The onion rings were light and delicious with a soft crisp and the steak was beautifully grilled with a pink center and grill marks. Again, the sauce and the guacamole brought in those classic Mexican flavors to tie it all in.  
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The Short Rib "Chile Verde" [$23] is prime, all natural short rib, slow cooked in a spicy roasted tomatillo chile with a jalapeño/roasted garlic potato puree and a verde sauce. The short rib was tender without being too fatty and was extra soft from soaking in the chile sauce. This was your simple meat and potatoes kind of dish, with a Mexican twist. 
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The churros with caramel and chocolate sauce perfection. I can't get into it without setting off a craving so I will have to leave it to your imagination. And the dulce de leche ice cream with strands of gooey caramel swirled in with the rich creaminess of this delightful bowl of heaven was inexplicably great. 
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The owners of Taste had a really great idea with this concept. I like the fusion and creative ideas on the menu. The untraditional marinades and eccentric flavors are an experience. The black beans are slow cooked with bay leaves and have unexpected hints of flavor. The question is whether or not you are up for trying something new. I didn't love everything I tried, but I commend the effort and will come back here again once the menu has settled to see what to make of this whole enchilada. 
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Easter Brunch with Marcel Vigneron and Haru Kishi

4/9/2012

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I had a feeling that my Easter weekend was going to be eggcellent when I arrived to the first seating of "The Coop" pop-up restaurant on Friday morning. Marcel Vigneron and Haru Kishi dreamed up a delectably clever 5-course tasting menu that was exactly the avant-garde dining experience I had hoped for. It was everything I had eggspected and more.
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Our party of 3 arrived to the now closed Gonpachi restaurant on La Cienega and walked through the ethereal garden and past the koi pond to our intimate seats at the sushi bar. 
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Our first course was a warm scramble of egg and cream with truffle foam on top, placed inside of an egg shell. The truffle essence of the foam and the delicate creaminess of the egg were a mouth watering combination. The scramble was fluffy and light with a beautiful finish on the tongue. Marcel's touch with the foam was a welcome reminder of his Top Chef days and his gastronomique flourishes with nitrate did not go unnoticed. 
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The next course was my absolute favorite. It looks simple to the naked eye, but in truth the flavors were rich and complex. This delicate cut of salmon was cooked under sous-vide and then lay in a glaze made from nori (seaweed) on one side and a creamy sauce made from fried egg on the other. Tiny ronds of sweetened kumquat, cilantro flowers, pickled daikon and diluted wasabi adorned the plate and made this salmon mi-cuit the most heavenly part of brunch. Marcel and Haru need to consider bottling this seaweed syrup glaze and shelving it right away. I was thrilled to find these flavors presented in new and unexpected ways. Hats off to you, Chefs! 
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The third course was a tiger chawan-mushi with spring peas. We poured the broth of fresh peas over tiger shrimp, pea tendrils and the chawan-mushi, (egg custard steamed in a teacup). The broth was fresh and tasted like Spring in a cup, and was infused with a scallop essence and cream that made it truly exceptional. The textures and flavors were mild, silky and very pleasing. We all appreciated the subtle flavor infusions of this course.
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The nesting egg with bacon was an egg moelleux wrapped in shredded philo on a bed of three kinds of wild aragula. The shredded philo did a wonderful job posing as a bird's nest and had a soft crunch to it. The bacon was actually pork belly from Niman Ranch that Haru himself brined overnight with tamarind. Good thing the pork belly portions were huge because some pieces were too fatty for me. This rich and savory dish was decadent and filling. 
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Dessert was a bread pudding soaked in grand mariner and a sabayon (creamy egg sauce) topped with strawberries, shaved chocolate and mint. I loved the sweetness of the strawberries with this delightfully smooth and luscious bread pudding. The grand mariner and the mint were a beautiful addition here, as well.
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Marcel brought the brunch to a close with his digestif cocktail called Bloody Good Thyme. It's vodka based with blood orange, thyme, lavender and simple syrup. It was blended and you can see the dry ice floating as Marcel whips us a batch of these delicious drinks.
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Loved the entire brunch, from beginning to end. Haru and Marcel were funny and kept us smiling and laughing the whole time. They prepped this pop-up in just 3 days. One day designing the menu, one day buying the supplies and doing all the prep work just the day before! Marcel joked that he hadn't slept in 3 days and the weekend was just getting started. These two definitely love what they do and you can taste their passion in the dishes they create. 

So what's next for them? Haru has left Chaya and is going back to Paris to continue cooking there, and Marcel is staying in LA and working on private events and doing menu consultation for restaurants for his new company, Modern Global Tasting. 

I'll be sure to keep my eyes open for any more fun pop-ups and this time I will let you guys know in advance so you can try to get in, too!
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For Taco Tuesdays Try Escuela Taqueria

4/3/2012

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Steven Arroyo won all of our hearts with Cobras and Matadors, his charming, tapas style restaurant on Beverly Blvd where intimate date nights ended with deliciously sumptuous french toast and once in a while some equally sumptuous french kissing. With the news that it had closed it's doors in February, I felt a thud shuddering in my mind, echoing the end of an era.

But Arroyo won't close one door without opening another. Slowly building a lunchtime empire on the same block, Arroyo has opened sandwich spot Potato Chips and the hip taqueria Escuela right around the corner. And of course he has plans to open something new in the Cobras location. 

Escuela has become a local favorite of mine, because they serves some of the best tacos in the city along with obsessively good chips and salsa. And it happens to have that clutter of cool that catches your eye. A glimpse of turquoise here, a mess of suspended chairs there and some casual outdoor seating. 
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Tacos are between $6 and $8 and arrive 2 per order. Make sure to hit up the ATM beforehand cuz just like all your fave spots in NY, it's cash only here.
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 The white shrimp tacos pop with flavor and are possibly the best thing on the menu. The tomatoes and garlic are just right with the spicy red mojo and chorizo. 
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The pork belly tacos with pickled onions and cilantro are rich and dripping in fat. The acidic vinegar of the pickled onions cuts the richness and adds a bite, and you can always pour on a scoop of the house's smoky salsa for added oomph.
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The sea bass tacos with crispy skin and cabbage are a healthy choice. They're grilled rather than fried and have a light citrus marinade and chipotle creme fraiche. These are light and fresh and perfect to counteract the guilt of the pork belly. Or even if you're just craving some tacos but still want to behave. I get it, it's time to get back that banging summer bod.  
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The watermelon juice is served in a carafe and it isn't pureed with thick chunks but is perfectly filtered and sweetened with simple syrup. Depending on the season, blood orange and pineapple juice is also available. These juices really spell s-u-m-m-e-r-t-i-m-e and are just sugary and naturally fruity enough to compliment your tacos.

School is out for the summer at Escuela Taqueria. An endless summer where nobody ever forgets to cross their T's or chow down on some delicious tacos. No more papers, no more books, no more teacher's dirty looks. Just tacos for days and days. 
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    All you foodies out there with eclectic palettes who want to stay abreast of what is going on in the world of food have found a new, mouth watering blog to sink your teeth into. Justine Freeman wants to talk about the healthy quinoa salad and tuna stuffed peppers she eats regularly at Pizza Mozza but then she cannot wait to divulge every greasy detail about the sensational short rib and mac n cheese sandwich she devoured at the Grilled Cheese Truck. Here, It's all about FOOD.

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