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Tortilla Republic's Nuevo Mexican Picks

4/18/2012

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With stylized plating and impressive decor, Tortilla Republic is exactly the kind of "Mod Mexican" restaurant most would hope to find in Beverly Hills. The food can be "hit or miss" for now, as the kitchen gets a better grasp of what works and what doesn't, but it's hard to hate when the menu is this inventive and fun. Duck confit tacos, and hibiscus flower or lobster truffle enchiladas? BH sure is fancy.

WIth an outdoor patio and a trendy, nautical-inspired chandelier room in the back, this 125-seat spot works for large dinner parties or intimate dates. Interior designer Kirk Pereira really personalized the space using woven chairs and hand-blown glassware similar to those the owners have seen on their travels. And Pereira kept it sexy with a white onyx bar (boasting LA-based contemporary artist Paul Robinson's designs) and a glass tequila wall that emanates light.
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After a solid 5 minutes ogling the drink menu and fawning over the cucumber lavender tequila with house made lavender syrup, we browsed the options that consulting chef Cathy Shyne had developed and applauded the use of farmer's market ingredients and organic fare. Here are some of the dishes we tried.
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The chilled ceviche [$13] was fresh and definitely on the sweet side. It had the fish of the day (which was swordfish) and shrimp with fresh lime juice, cilantro, mango salsa and avocado. The tortilla chips were crisp and added a welcome bite of salt to the sweet ceviche. I enjoyed the versatility of flavors and the freshness made this a great way to wet the appetite. 
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The Tuna Crudo [$13.25] with ahi tuna, avocado, mango, jicama, and blood orange citronette had a modern presentation that you might not expect from a Mexican restaurant but would otherwise be pretty standard. The colors were vibrant and the ahi was poised over a pool of hibiscus which gave it a fragrant fruitiness of sorts. A very nice dish although I preferred the ceviche. 
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Tacos de Jicama [$12] are an extremely exciting proposition to anyone avoiding carbs, since the "tortillas" are actually thin slices of jicama. I tried jicama tacos like these on a recent trip to Guadalajara, Mexico and loved the idea, so I was beyond thrilled to see them reappear on an LA menu. It took only a few bites to discover their blandness though, even with the likes of shrimp, chipotle mayo, cilantro, red onion and avocado in the mix. But for a simple and light snack, tacos de  jicama are a genius addition to the menu and one that some of us will be careful not to overlook. Maybe a side of hot sauce or salsa would do the trick. 
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Duck Confit Tacos [$12] with sour cherry salsita, shaved radish and cilantro crema. Heart be still.

Extremely high expectations joined the party at the mere sight of these colorful and juicy looking tacos. Alas, these were a disappointment. 

The duck confit was way too sugary and the sweetness completely masked the other flavors. Who really wants to bite into a dessert taco as an appetizer? Our waitress told us that we were not the first to mention the sugary overload and she hinted that perhaps a few of the dishes were still being revised. Truth is that the restaurant is still very new and just needs a few tweaks in the right places to blossom. 
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The Carnitas [$20] with crispy pork, caramelized orange, pickled jalapeños, and tomatillo fresco was marinated in orange juice and coca cola. There was a distinct orange fragrance from the orange zest which definitely lingered so make sure that you are a fan of zest before you order!
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Lobster enchiladas [$26] with truffled tomatillo seafood bisque, shaved black truffle and manchego and jack cheeses was soft and delicate with a tangy, lightly spicy sauce to bring in that Latin flare. This was by far my favorite dish and one I would recommend. I know it's pricey but what else can you expect when you order lobster and truffles? Other than pure joy, that is.
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The 8 oz. Prime Flatiron Steak [$26] with chimichurri sauce, onion rings and grilled asparagus came on a bed of jalapeño roasted garlic potato puree. The onion rings were light and delicious with a soft crisp and the steak was beautifully grilled with a pink center and grill marks. Again, the sauce and the guacamole brought in those classic Mexican flavors to tie it all in.  
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The Short Rib "Chile Verde" [$23] is prime, all natural short rib, slow cooked in a spicy roasted tomatillo chile with a jalapeño/roasted garlic potato puree and a verde sauce. The short rib was tender without being too fatty and was extra soft from soaking in the chile sauce. This was your simple meat and potatoes kind of dish, with a Mexican twist. 
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The churros with caramel and chocolate sauce perfection. I can't get into it without setting off a craving so I will have to leave it to your imagination. And the dulce de leche ice cream with strands of gooey caramel swirled in with the rich creaminess of this delightful bowl of heaven was inexplicably great. 
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The owners of Taste had a really great idea with this concept. I like the fusion and creative ideas on the menu. The untraditional marinades and eccentric flavors are an experience. The black beans are slow cooked with bay leaves and have unexpected hints of flavor. The question is whether or not you are up for trying something new. I didn't love everything I tried, but I commend the effort and will come back here again once the menu has settled to see what to make of this whole enchilada. 
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